I legalized my K in Tx on the street. You do not need turn signals or a speedometer, you need: I am looking for a drz400. I look at two. One is listed as 09, but the owner claims it`s NOT legal on the street (I didn`t think they made a dirty model after 08), the other is a 03, and the owner claims it`s legal on the street, but is there a way to differentiate from vin? My condition is pretty shitty about dirt > road remodeling, so I`d like to get one that was factory legal 50 states, I converted a 2003 XR400R and my 2000 DrZ400 kicker. Check in my garage for things I`ve added, like a Baja Designs key switch, etc. It`s not a big job or a hard job. Good luck to you! For me, two wheels are no better than a dirt bike homologated for the road! Look at the subframe. The model without road homologation will have a shorter subframe. If the subframe is longer, that is, almost reaches the end of the rear wing, it is legal for the road. Do them with your bike, then bring the bike and insurance to an inspection station. They give you the sticker and a “green leaf” which is actually blue. Bring the blue sheet with your title to the DMV to create a legal street title. They take your title and send the new one in the mail and give you a license plate.
2000 DRZ400e, which I want to make legal on the street at TX. Talk to the local office about labels and no need for turn signals.. only speedometer, headlight (two spokes), taillight with brake switch, horn, 1 mirror and DOT Legal tires. I`ve found that most “Baja” kits cost around $400 and come with more than I need. I went to see a converted electric model yesterday and it looked very simple and it used a simple speedometer with odometer, not the fully electronic Trailtech unit. It was a very clean facility and if they didn`t have a plate in the back, 95% of people wouldn`t even know it was legal on the street. I like the stock DRZ flagship and you can also get a jap spec version of Wheeling which is pretty cool. Conversion is quite common with TT-Ern and you can browse TT classifieds and often find a lot of cheap goodies. I bought an S, so I would be legal out of the box. I thought the baja stuff was way too expensive – clamps to keep the headlight on – no thanks. Well, if it`s VIN, then you mean legal street stock and not modified to be legal on the street, right? If so, does it have to be an DM or an S, not an E. Is he not legal on the street because he does not have the title? Fyi.
Six months ago, I made a change from home brewing to street approval on a `02 kicker. I spent about $230 on parts that do what you`re describing, except I didn`t install a hi/lo headlight and installed turn signals (for safety reasons, not because state law required them). This diagram is no longer up to date as I have installed an analog tach since then, but it can give you some useful ideas. I just put my E on the TX about 30 days ago and the only thing I encountered everywhere I went for inspection was two brake light switches. All insisted that the front and rear brakes activate the brake light. I estimate about $250 for new parts. Less if you are good on ebay. The model name is on the plate, on which the chassis number is also located. My hydraulic switch lasted 30 days. Cheepo mechanical is now 8 years old and works well. Just my experience. I saw the hydraulics leak inside and even explode completely.
The inspection sticker must be provided with a 6″ license plate and illuminated from there. A Trailtech gives you a lot with an accurate speedometer for just over $100 that I last reviewed. Even though they may not need a speedometer (really? no speedometer? how do you know if you`re driving too fast?), it will prevent you from getting a ticket and having an Odo, Tach, and other computer goodies. I do not recommend a mechanical brake light switch. I originally installed one and it was a PIA to find a place to mount it on the rear brake lever. But I did, and then, after about 6 weeks, its internal insulation apparently failed and every time I applied the brake enough to activate the brake light, it grounded the entire electrical system and lights, ignition, engine, everything died in the middle of the road! However, I ignited immediately when I released the rear brake. I then installed a hydraulic brake light switch instead and it has been working perfectly ever since. Just my 2 cents.
Browse E-Bay start picking up coins, call the Kit Company Baja, they may have something that suits your needs. You already have your answer. Buy a headlight, rear, horn, rearview mirror of your choice. Buy a universal switch to run the system from many catalogs. My hold consists of mechanically turning off the rear brake lever for the brake light. You can buy a universal wiring harness or make your own. Kawasaki has released a private label version of the DR-Z known as the KLX400 – it`s almost identical to the DR-Z400, except for the body and some accessories.  The Suzuki DR-Z400 is a two-sport motorcycle manufactured by Suzuki from the year 2000.
It is powered by a 398 cm³ (24.3 cu cu) liquid-cooled four-stroke single-stroke engine.  IDK on the model designation in the chassis number; My VIN has a few Ss, but IDK if any of them means it`s an S.